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Mount Annapurna - Tenth highest mountain of the earth



Mount Annapurna is a tenth highest mountain of the earth, located in central Nepal with an elevation of 8091 meters. Annapurna is a Sanskrit name which refers as Goddess of the Harvests. Annapurna conservation area is first and largest conservation area of Nepal with 7,629 sq. km. This Annapurna peak which is the world’s most dangerous to climb. The fatality-to-summit ratio on Annapurna, for example, is a truly terrifying 32%. The mountain is located in north-central Nepal, and was first summited in 1950 by a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal.

Annapurna is a massif in the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes one peak over 8,000 metres (26,000ft), thirteen peaks over 7,000 metres (23,000 ft), and sixteen more over 6,000 metres (20,000 ft). The massif is 55 kilometres(34 mi) long, and is bounded by the Kali Gandaki Gorge on the west, the Marshyangdi River on the north and east, and by Pokhara Valley on the south. At the western end the massif encloses a high basin called the Annapurna Sanctuary. Annapurna I Main is the tenth highest mountain in the world at 8,091 metres (26,545 ft) above sea level, and was the first of the Eight-thousanders to be climbed.


The entire massif and surrounding area are protected within the 7,629 square kilometres (2,946 sq mi) Annapurna Conservation Area, the first and largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, including Annapurna Sanctuary and Annapurna Circuit.

Historically, the Annapurna peaks are among the world's most dangerous mountains to climb, although in more recent history, using only figures from 1990 and after, Kangchenjunga has a higher fatality rate. By March 2012, there had been 191 summit ascents of Annapurna I Main, and 61 climbing fatalities on the mountain. This fatality-to-summit ratio (32%) is the highest of any of the eight-thousanders. In particular, the ascent via the south face is considered, by some, the most difficult of all climbs. In October 2014, at least 43 people were killed as a result of snowstorms and avalanches on and around Annapurna, in Nepal's worst ever trekking disaster.

Annapurna I Main

Annapurna I was the first 8,000-metre (26,200 ft) peak to be climbed. Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, of the French Annapurna expedition led by Herzog (including Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle), reached the summit on 3 June 1950. Ichac made a documentary of the expedition, called Victoire sur l' Annapurna. Its summit was the highest summit attained for three years, until the first successful ascent of Mount Everest (although higher non-summit points - at least 8,500 metres (27,900 ft) - had already been attained on Everest in the 1920s).

The south face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston using supplementary oxygen, members of a British expedition led by Chris Bonington that included the alpinist Ian Clough, who was killed by a falling serac during the descent. They were, however, beaten to the second ascent of Annapurna by a matter of days by a British Army expedition led by Colonel Henry Day.

In 1978, the American Women's Himalayan Expedition, a team led by Arlene Blum, became the first United States team to climb Annapurna I. The first summit team, composed of Vera Komarkova and Irene Miller, and Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Ringjing, reached the top at 3:30 pm on October 15, 1978. The second summit team, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and Vera Watson, died during this climb.

In 1981 Polish expedition Zakopane Alpine Club set a new route on Annapurna I Central (8051 m). Maciej Berbeka and Bogusław Probulski reached the summit on May 23, 1981. The route called Zakopiańczyków Way was recognized as the best achievement of the Himalayan season in 1981.

On 3 February 1987, Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.

The first solo ascent of the south face was made in October 2007 by Slovenian climber Tomaž Humar; he climbed to the Roc Noir and then to Annapurna East (8,047m).

On 8 and 9 October 2013 Swiss climber Ueli Steck soloed the Lafaille route on the main and highest part of the face; this was his third attempt on the route and has been called "one of the most impressive Himalayan climbs in history", with Steck taking 28 hours to make the trip from Base Camp to summit and back again.

Annapurna I East

Annapurna I East is a subsidiary mountain of Annapurna I Main. It is 8,010 meters tall.

Annapurna I Central

South face of Mount Annapurna (44).JPG

Annapurna I Central is 8,051 m (26,414 ft) tall.

Annapurna South

Annupurna South.jpg

Annapurna South, also called Annapurna Dakshin or Moditse, is a mountain in the Annapurna Himal range of the Himalayas, and the 101st-highest mountain in the world. It was first ascended in 1964, and is 7,219 metres (23,684 ft) tall. The nearby mountain Hiunchuli is in fact an extension of Annapurna South.

Annapurna II

Annapurna II north.jpg

AnnapurnaII is part of the Annapurna mountain range, and is the eastern anchor of the range. It was first climbed in 1960 by a British / Indian / Nepalese team led by J. O. M. Roberts via the West Ridge, approached from the north. The summit party comprised Richard Grant, Chris Bonington, and Sherpa Ang Nyima. In terms of elevation, isolation (distance to a higher summit, namely Annapurna I East Peak, 29.02 km or 18.03 mi) and prominence (2,437 m or 7,995 ft), Annapurna II does not rank far behind Annapurna I Main, which serves as the western anchor. It is a fully independent peak, despite the close association with Annapurna I Main which its name implies. Annapurna II is the 16th highest mountain in the world.

Yugoslavs from Slovenia repeated this ascent in 1969, also climbing Annapurna IV. Kazmir Draslar and Matija Malezic reached the summit. In 1973 Japanese shortcut the route by climbing directly up the north face between IV and V before continuing along the west ridge. Katsuyuki Kondo reached the top in a remarkable solo performance.

In 1983, Tim Macartney-Snape planned and participated in an expedition to Annapurna II (7,937 m or 26,040 ft) successfully reaching the summit via the first ascent of the south spur. The descent was delayed by a blizzard and the expedition ran out of food during the last five days. They were reported missing and when the expedition eventually returned they received significant publicity.

On Feb 2, 2007; Philipp Kunz, Lhakpa Wangel, Temba Nuru and Lhakpa Thinduk made the first winter ascent. The team followed the route of the first ascent from the north.

Annapurna III

Annapurna Three.jpg


Annapurna III is a mountain in the Annapurna mountain range, and at 7,555 metres (24,787 ft) tall, it is the 42nd highest mountain that is not a subsidiary peak of another mountain. It was first ascended in 1961 by an Indian expedition led by Capt. Mohan Singh Kohli via the Northeast Face. The summit party comprised Mohan Kohli, Sonam Gyatso, and Sonam Girmi.

Annapurna IV



Annapurna IV is a mountain of the Annapurna range in the Himalayas. It is near Annapurna II. It was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition led by Heinz Steinmetz via the North Face and Northwest Ridge. The summit party comprised Steinmetz, Harald Biller, and Jurgen Wellenkamp.

Geography

The Annapurna massif contains six prominent peaks over 7,200 m (23,620 ft) elevation:

  1. Annapurna I (Main) 8,091 m (26,545 ft) Ranked 10th; Prominence=2,984 m 28.595°N 83.819°E
  2. Annapurna II 7,937 m (26,040 ft) Ranked 16th; Prominence=2,437 m 28.539°N 84.137°E
  3. Annapurna III 7,555 m (24,786 ft) Ranked 42nd; Prominence=703 m 28.585°N 84.000°E
  4. Annapurna IV 7,525 m (24,688 ft) 28.539°N 84.087°E
  5. Gangapurna 7,455 m (24,457 ft) Ranked 59th; Prominence=563 m 28.606°N 83.965°E
  6. Annapurna South 7,219 m (23,684 ft) Ranked 101st; Prominence=775 m 28.518°N 83.806°E

Less prominent and other peaks in the Annapurna Himal include:

  1. Annapurna I Central 8,051 m (26,414 ft)
  2. Annapurna I East 8,010 m (26,280 ft)
  3. Annapurna Fang 7,647 m (25,089 ft)
  4. Khangsar Kang 7,485 m (24,557 ft)
  5. Tarke Kang 7,202 m (23,629 ft)
  6. Lachenal Peak 7,140 m (23,425 ft)
  7. Tilicho Peak 7,135 m (23,409 ft)
  8. Nilgiri Himal North 7,061 m (23,166 ft), Central 6,940 m (22,769 ft) and South 6,839 m (22,438 ft)
  9. Machhapuchchhre 6,993 m (22,943 ft)
  10. Hiunchuli 6,441 m (21,132 ft)
  11. Gandharba Chuli 6,248 m (20,499 ft)


Fatality rate

Annapurna I has the greatest fatality rate of all the 14 eight-thousanders: as of March 2012, there have been 52 deaths during ascents, 191 successful ascents, and nine deaths upon descent.

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