Mt. Lhotse - Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world

Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Its height is 8511 meters. Mount Lhotse is connected to Mount Everest. It is an extremely dangerous and dramatic rocky route. Lhotse is located on the border of Nepal and Tibet. It is also known as one of the most deadly mountains in the world, because of many failed attempts and fatalities while trying to climb. Lhotse is connected to the latter peak via the South Col. Lhotse means “South Peak” in the Tibetan language. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 meters (27,940 ft) above sea level, the mountain comprises the smaller peaks Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414 m (27,605 ft), and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 m (27,503 ft). The summit is on the border between Tibet of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

The main summit of Lhotse was first climbed on May 18, 1956, by the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse Expedition. On May 12, 1970, Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter of Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point on Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.

In 1955 first attempt by the International Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel) and was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans (Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya with 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas.

Climbing History Timeline

  1. 1955 Attempt by the International Himalayan Expedition.
  2. 1956 May 18 First ascent of the main summit: Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss.
  3. 1965 First attempt on Lhotse Shar by a Japanese expedition – reached 8,100 m (26,570 ft).
  4. 1970 May 12 First ascent of Lhotse Shar by an Austrian expedition, Sepp Mayerl, Rolf Walter.
  5. 1973 First attempt on the South Face by a Japanese expedition led by Royei Uchida.
  6. 1974 December 25 First attempt of an 8,000-meter peak in winter. Polish climbers Andrzej Zawada and Andrzej Heinrich reached a height of 8,250 meters (27,067 ft.).
  7. 1975 Attempt on the South Face by Reinhold Messner.
  8. 1977 Second ascent of the main summit by a German expedition led by Dr. G. Schmatz.
  9. 1979 Ascent of the main summit by Jerzy Kukuczka without the use of supplemental oxygen. His first conquered eight-thousander, and eventually the last one to climb 10 years later.
  10. 1980 April 27 Attempt on Lhotse Shar by the French climber Nicolas Jaeger, last seen at 8,200 meters (26,900 ft).
  11. 1981 Attempt on the South Face by a Yugoslavian expedition led by Aleš Kunaver. Vanja Matijevec and Franček Knez reach the top of the Face but not the summit.
  12. 1981 April 30 First solo ascent without the use of supplemental oxygen of the main summit by Hristo Prodanov, as part of the first Bulgarian Himalayan expedition.
  13. 1981 October 16 Second ascent of Lhotse Shar Switzerland, Colin Molines.
  14. 1984 May 20/21 Members of the Czechoslovak expedition led by Ivan Galfy climb the South Face of Lhotse Shar for the first time (third overall ascent of Lhotse Shar).
  15. 1986 October 16 Ascent by Reinhold Messner, thus becoming the first person to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousanders.
  16. 1987 May 21 the Brazilian Otto William Gerstenberger Junior and the Swiss Haans Singera reach the summit.
  17. 1988 December 31 Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish climber, completed the first winter ascent of Lhotse.
  18. 1989 October 24 Jerzy Kukuczka perishes while climbing the South Face when his secondhand rope breaks. An international expedition led by Reinhold Messner to climb the South Face was unsuccessful.
  19. 1990 April 24 Tomo Česen from Slovenia, makes a first solo ascent of South Face of Lhotse. The controversy of his climb is later raised by the Soviet Himalayan expedition, claiming that his ascent would be impossible. Reinhold Messner would also raise his doubts.
  20. 1990 October 16 First ascent of South Face by the Soviet Himalayan expedition members Sergey Bershov and Gennadiy Karataev.
  21. 1994 May 13 Carlos Carsolio got mountaintop solo, introducing a world speed record at 23 h 50 min rise from Base Camp to the summit.
  22. 1996 Chantal Mauduit becomes the first woman to reach the summit of Lhotse.
  23. 1996 May 17 Anatoli Boukreev solo ascent, world speed record at 21 hours 16 min from Base Camp to summit without supplemental oxygen.
  24. 1997 Attempt to climb Lhotse Middle via the ridge between the main summit and Lhotse Shar by a Russian expedition, led by Vladimir Bashkirov, who died in the attempt, just below the main summit.
  25. 1999 Attempt to climb Lhotse Middle and traverse the three summits by a Russian team, failed due to bad weather.
  26. 2001 May 23 First ascent of Lhotse Middle by a Russian expedition.
  27. 2007 Pemba Doma Sherpa, Nepali mountaineer and two-time summit of Mt. Everest, falls to her death from Lhotse at 8000 m.
  28. 2011 May 14–15, Michael Horst, American guide, summits Mount Everest and Lhotse without descending below Camp IV (South Col) with less than 21 hours elapsing between the two summits.
  29. 2011 On May 20, Indian mountaineer Arjun Vajpai became the youngest climber ever to summit Lhotse, aged 17 years, 11 months and 16 days.
  30. 2017 on May 19, Belgian Stef 'Wolf' Wolfsput became the first person with a disability to climb to the summit of Lhotse and only the second Belgian. He suffers a paralyzed leg.
  31. 2018 on September 30, Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison complete the first ski descent from the summit of Lhotse.

Climbers pictures :

  1. http://www.alpinfo.ch/rueckblick/en/expeditions/bilder56.html (First ascent, 1956)
  2. https://cathyodowd.com/ribbon-of-ice-climbing-the-lhotse-couloir/ (Cathy O'Dowd, 2000)
  3. https://yurikoshelenko.livejournal.com/14289.html(Yuri Koshelenko, 2001)
  4. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201133100/Lhotse-8516m-West-Flank (Denis Urubko, 2010)
  5. http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201133100/Lhotse-8516m-West-Flank (Oleg Bartunov, 2010)
  6. http://followtheclimb.blogspot.com/2011/05/daily-video-journal-of-sophie-denis.html (Sophie Denis, 2011)
  7. https://www.flickr.com/photos/ferranlatorre/albums/72157633230508790 (Ferrán Latorre, 2013)

Climbers videos:

  1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOaVg5POOqY (Malcolm Myles Haskins, 2008)
  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Te-Fvva-TmU (Fredrik Sträng, 2009)
  3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2Fll4TAXnQ (Mountain Climbing, 2011)
  4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BCKzwR7rme8 (Carlos Pauner, 2011)
  5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QZSbJJ20Os (Michael Moniz, 2012)
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tQrSP_wL2g (Marek Radovan, 2012)
  7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCD3joBhAQU (Giripremi Everest Lhotse, 2013)
  8. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itAAKYCBjSA (Steve Plain, 2017)
  9. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxIUlwXBXX4 (Debasish Biswas, 2017)
  10. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7ExrClBfec (Breeze Sharma, Kuntal Joisher and Phurba Sherpa, 2018)
  11. https://www.facebook.com/14dawa/videos/2101990713169554/ (Chhang Dawa Sherpa, 2018)
  12. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTQtiIFbA6g (Elite Himalayan Adventures, 2018)
  13. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcTC75ik9uI&t=3s (Jonathan Gupta, 2018)
  14. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPXSFVruIHI (Hilaree Nelson, Jim Morrison, 2018)
  15. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vaVUQ_QwtIQ (mounteverestvideo, 2021)

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